Rolex Explorer II

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The Rolex Explorer II History

The new generation of Explorer was produced in the 1960s with the Rolex Explorer II reference 1655, especially for speleologists who, during their long missions in the dark and isolation, lose the ability to distinguish between daytime and night-time hours. This model has an orange 24 hours hand in the shape of an arrow which distinguishes between day and night. It is exactly this detail that gives the watch its nickname of “Freccione” (freccia in Italian means arrow), popular with collectors and enthusiasts. The 1655 is occasionally known as the “Steve McQueen", because it seems that the famous American actor preferred the model in his personal life.
It is an aesthetically and technically innovative watch of typical 1970s design. This model, available only in steel, has a fixed bezel with engraved Arabic numerals alternated with subtle black markers indicating the 24 hours; there is a date aperture at the 3 o’ clock position with a cyclope magnifying lens, the crystal is acrylic glass, the dial is matt black with white inscriptions and luminous tritium treated indices , the movement is calibre 1575 GMT, equipped with chronostop starting from 1972.

When it first appeared on the market the 1655 was not wholly successful and for that reason it was replaced in 1985 by the new reference 16550; a more modern watch, different in several technical and aesthetic aspects. The dial is available in black and white, the indices have a white gold border matching the Mercedes hands, the fixed bezel bears square numerals alternated with small triangles. The crystal is sapphire (Cyclope 25-295-C1) and the movement is calibre 3085 with instantaneous date jump mechanism and separate 24 hour hand. The bracelet is Oyster with Oysterlock clasp.
The first white dials produced have an ivory appearance, probably due to a manufacturing fault. Thus a legend was born for collectors, the “cream” Explorer 16550.
The reference 16550 stayed in the Rolex catalogue until 1988 when it was replaced by the new Explorer II, still in production today, with a  3185 calibre movement, steel case, white or black dial and Oysterlock bracelet.